What Causes shoulder divots in suits? The armhole area is too small and the bicep area of the sleeve are too tight causing the shoulder of the suit too rise and this creates divots in the shoulder.
How to fix shoulder divots? Take it to a great tailor and adjust padding and armhole. Most of the time you have to get a new suit jacket this can be a very costly alteration to make. Shoulder adjustment are the equivalent of a tailor doing heart surgery.
How To Make Sure You Don’t Have Divots
The first step too stopping rid divots is avoid buying suit that are too tight. In modern slim fitted suits this is especially the case. When buying a off the rack suit(you brought it from a store and not custom made or made too measure) one of the most important areas to check is the shoulder. Like I said before this is one of the most costly adjustments too make on a suit jacket so try too avoid too tight jackets from the start. Make sure its not hugging your biceps and make sure you can lift you arm in a normal motion.
Before you buy make sure you get the jacket with the right shoulder structure for you.
4 Types Of Shoulders For Suit
1.Structed
Structed shoulders are the classic shoulder style you see on a suit. Mostly has some form of padding. The degree of padding has involved overtime. If you look at a suit from the 40’s you could cleary see the padding and structure in the shoulder area giving the suit a boxy look.
Today the modern structure is a very slim fit structing the shoulder line in 2022
2.Unstructered
The unstructured shoulder also know as the natural shoulder because of its very little too no padding. This type of shoulder is normally seen with suits that are made for casual setting. Also its common on suit jackets that are made for summer such as a lien or cotton blazer. One of the biggest con of unstructured or natural shoulders is that it follows your natural shoulder pattern so if you don’t like your natural shoulders you probably don’t want it too expose the shoulders you dont like.
Which Shoulder Should I Choose
If you are in a business environment or in a situation where you want to command respect. You should go with the structure shoulder.
If you are in a relax casual environment like a wedding funeral or bar go with a unstructed natural shoulder look
Shoulder Fit For Big Guys
Although if you are a big guy or a athletic build guy with big shoulders then most of your suits should be natural. The reason is too look good you need to have a nice balance proportionate look you don’t want to over do it in the shoulder area. This is cause you to look like a character.
2.Spalla Camicia
This is a shoulder designs that has pleats in the shoulders. This type of fit mostly comes on customs Italian suits very uncommon for off the rack and made to measure suits. This designs also gives you more room in the shoulder area making the suit more functional. So if you are a big guy this may be worth giving a try.
4.Con Rollino
This is a cut where the shoulder natural line is cut above the shoulder and the suit arm length is a little longer than usual. Mostly found on custom Italian suits not very common on of the rack also made to measure suits. Because the cut is above the shoulder line it gives this extra padded look. This is done on purpose not by mistake. Its a very bold look best for business situation and not very casual.
I hope this guide was able to help you and I want to end this by reminding you the best way to avoid shoulder divots is to buy the right suit jacket to fixing a divot is so costly most of the time its not wroth fixing.